The Sambar Trail - Discovering Chennai's five best Sambars

Sambar served from a mug, the traditional way at Ratna Cafe, Triplicane.
Image Courtesy: Anand Hariharan

I must admit, this has been the one story that has consumed the maximum amount of effort, time and money till date. Whether it was traveling to Sriperumbudur to sample a sambar at a small joint based on a tip off or wrestling for parking to get into Triplicane, at the end of it all, I can only say that it was entirely worth it.

I will thank right at the start, Videep Vijay Kumar, my co-author for this story - I respect his taste buds and his forthright nature with opinions. We haven't really been able to convince each other about this list but it's the best we could settle on. Many thanks also to Venky, Mansi Mehta, Rochna, Sudhir Natarajan and others who have helped me put this piece together along with the many on Facebook who threw in their opinions.

I believed for to be a significant member of Tamil Nadu's culinary palate, often not given it's due perhaps owing to its ubiquity. However, this journey has convinced us of how a good sambar can lift a south indian meal or more importantly, how a bad one can ruin it. Discover with us, Chennai's top 5 Sambars:

1. Mathura
My tryst with Mathura's sambar happened by chance. After being chased out of a near shut joint for lunch in Besant Nagar, I decided to venture into Mathura, having read about it on Facebook, amongst the many opinions expressed by people, recommended by Rakesh Gowtham. Unlike the high hopes I carried into the more illustrious Sambar across the road in Triplicane, this Sambar didnt promise much. However, my first spoon and I had decided that this had to top the charts. The most eclectic mix of the pulses, spices, coconut and a hint of ghee served at the right temperature set my taste buds rolling. Deservedly, Chennai's best Sambar.
Tried as/with: Sambar vadai, Rava Dosa
Location: Mathura, 2nd Floor, Tarapore Towers, Anna Salai, Chennai - 600002

2. Ratna Cafe
Touted by most to top this chart, I personally was a little let down by my Ratna Cafe experience. Videep and me made it a point to head to the "real original" Triplicane branch and sit in the non ac section to enjoy it the way it is meant to be. However, I perhaps was a victim of over-expectation though I must attribute that to the 17 odd recommendations that came in for this sambar to be numero uno. Served hot and from a mug, this sambar is thick and works best as a tiffin sambar.
Tried as/with: Idli-Sambar, Ghee Roast
Location: Ratna Cafe, Tripline, Near Zam bazaar, Chennai

3. Mathsya
Just take our word for it - head to this Egmore icon (located within 150 metres of the Egmore station) to enjoy rich, thick udipi sambar unlike anywhere else in Chennai. It's hard to explain why this made it only to 3rd spot, but I guess it's a competitive world out there for the Sambars! Best tried after a few drinks at 1am with Mysore masala dosa.
Tried with / as: Pongal vada, Mysore masala dosa
Location: Near Egmore Railway station. Ph: 044-28191900

4. Ashoka / Palmgrove
The only "meals sambar" that made the cut, the sambar at Ashoka as well as it's cousin Palmgrove (same management) has remained uncannily consistent, more or less, over the decades (or so we hear!). Served hot, this will definitely appeal to those who prefer their sambar not-so-thick and bereft of asafoetida. It's versatility is on display when tried either with rice and ghee or with their signature ghee roast.
Tried with / as: Meals, Ghee roast, Sambar vada
Location: Ashoka - Pantheon Road, Egmore, Chennai-8; Palmgrove - Kodambakkam high road, Nungambakkam, Chennai-34

5. Hotel Saravana Bhavan
It's really not easy to operate at the scale at which 'HSB' does and yet achieve the consistency that they've managed to sustain. And for that sheer reason, HSB's sambar manages to face-off with rival Sangeetha and iD (Sathyam Cinemas) to make the final position on this list. Try any HSB at any point of the day either as Bisi Bela Bhaath, Idli-Sambar, Meals or just with a medu vadai, you will NOT be disappointed. Strong flavoured and medium thick is how this sambar has stayed for many years now.
Tried with / as: Pongal, Sambar Vada, Mysore masala dosa, bisi bela bhaath
Location: We tried the one in Pondy Bazaar, next to Maya Plaza and on Peters Road. To view details of their 18 other outlets in South India, click here.

Special mentions - Karthik Tiffin stall (Annanagar 12th main road), iD at sathyam Cinemas, Sangeetha and Raj Bhaavan (Nungambakkam high road)
Tribute - Woodlands Drive-in, we miss you

We made a conscious effort to not include the Mysore variety of sweetened sambar as made famous by Sukh sagar in Chennai and Chalukia in Bangalore since it has an entirely different, acquired taste. Moreover, this story was to discover Chennai's best sambar.

We were very keen to include Hotel Maris (adjacent to Sheraton Chola, Dr. RK Salai) in the list but didn't manage to make it there and were running out of time to release this. We are told that their idli-sambar is unique and a definite treat. If any of you know about this, do let us know.

I am hoping this story attracts lots of opinion, brickbats, feedback and more. Look forward to the same.

Fine dining Fast food - Cream Centre on College Road

(Pic courtesy: thehindu.com)
It indeed did come as a surprise to me as I was stepping into the swanky new Cream Centre on Haddows Road that I had never had a meal at any Cream Centre across the country, especially since I have been vegetarian for the better part of the last three years. I have heard everything from ravishing praise to strong loyalty amongst pure vegetarians and others towards the franchise. As expected, I had this inkling that Cream Centre was an Indian joint. But my first glance at the menu and I was thrown off - Indian, Italian, American, Lebanese, Mexican, Continental and street food on the same menu. Not much of a fan of multi-cuisine restaurants, this degree of mix ticked me off instantly.

We went as a group of 5 + 1 kid and all of us were quite hungry. My company included a few who were regulars here and I was told that the American Corn Cheese balls came highly recommended. We ordered that along with Papdi chaat and Bambaiyya Ragda pattice. My mother and I are both suckers when it comes to good Ragda pattice, having been spoilt with it as a great evening snack when in Mumbai.

I frankly wasn't looking forward to the Cheese balls but was very impressed - they were indeed very tasty and yet didn't leave a sick dairy after taste that usually accompanies dyna bytes or cheese fritters / balls. The papdi chaat was a far cry from that at Gangotree and / or the recently opened Kailash Parbat (Harrington Road - not that I love it either, but their papdi chaat is very good) - shall not order again. The ingredients as such were good by themselves but they didn't mix very eclectically to leave me happy.

The Ragda pattice - I did have high hopes. Cream Centre is from Bombay, home to Ragda pattice. Even our friendly restaurant manager was from Ghatkopar, Mumbai and I was expecting authentic stuff. The pattice (patties I know, but this is how this is referred to as!) was hard and didn't seem to go harmoniously with the ragda (channa). It seemed a tad over fried and wrongly spiced.

Main course between us was a Pizza Siciliana, Macaroni Magic, Masala Bhatura with Channa and Methi Aloo Paratha meal. To cut a long story short, dinner was a downer. Except for the Paratha meal which was fresh, well tempered and served with a good measure of tasty raitha, the rest were just below average. The macaroni was just plain macaroni dipped in a white sauce made of cheese. The menu mentioned mushrooms and I did find one or two imposters swimming around but they were either too old or genetically modified to lend any unique taste to my pasta. There was no form of chef's seasoning - I'd have expected basil or thyme at the least if not a dash of vodka or wine - okay perhaps I am pushing it but I just demanded that my pasta have a flavour of SOMETHING. The pizza was the worst I have had at a public place. The base was stuck between crisp and soggy, cheese tasted old and the peppers on it again, seemed to have no taste.

I had read on the internet of Cream Centre being tagged as serving the "World's best bhatura" - I don't know what they were talking about. Just like a lot of other people on the internet and specifically posts on burrp on this topic, I too was quite taken aback that they served the Bathura and Channa as separate portions, costing Rs. 35 and Rs. 95 respectively. Didn't really cut any ice with me. I'd still recommend the Channa Bhatura at Ashoka or Sukh Sagar.

Desserts - Sizzling brownie, thumbs up.

I did toy with the idea of visiting the place again before writing this review but I guess the place's reputation and it's inability to satisfy me on my first visit put me off badly enough for me to write this straight away. I have been told very good things about their sizzlers and biriyani. I will try it again sometime soon though I don't expect too much since I heard the same about the macaroni and the "World's Greatest Bhatura".

Cream Centre is stuck between being a fine dining restaurant and a food court and I don't see why I'd want to pay the fancy price for something like that.

Ambience: The place is neatly done without being over the top. The first thing I registered was the bathroom door that opened outwards instead of inwards - I don't think I've seen that anywhere else in Chennai. Brightly lit interiors are always preferred by me over dim interiors and that was a good plus. Somehow, I am growing a little tired though of the brown veneer finished laminate woodwork in most public places these days. Tip off: Visit the AC section of a Saravana Bhavan these days and it'll look exactly the same as Cream Centre! But overall, comfortable seating and happy lighting = no complaints on this front.

Access: Is the biggest challenge at this location. Located on a one way road means circuititious entry and exit and very little parking compared to it's large fan base means hassled valet parking drivers, not a relaxing thought during weekends.

Staff: Most of them seem to be from Bombay, an interesting trick which hopefully works for them. The waiter tending to us didn't seem to understand what we were asking for and the moment one of us got slightly exasperated, the alert and very warm restaurant manager replaced the waiter in a jiffy. Neat touch. But overall the service was quite quick and no-nonsense. Don't expect broad smiles and lectures educating you on what you are eating. But then again, what do you teach Indians about Parathas and Channa Bathura they'd argue.

Facilities: Good clean toilets and hand wash.
Cost: Steep, not expensive. Just that it feels weird paying so much for what seems like fast food.

Date: 25th August, 2009
Place: Chennai, India
Reviewed by: Harish Anand Thilakan

Must Order –American Corn Cheese balls & Sizzling brownie - but then again, would you travel all the way anywhere just for a starter & dessert?
Average Cost per person - Rs. 350-450 a head including a beverage (obviously non alcoholic, this is TN remember!) and dessert.

Address- 45, College Road, Chennai - 600006
Driving Directions - Enter College Road from the Good Shepherd school / Sterling Road side and you'll find it past the first bend on the left, just before the Meteorological dept office.

- Cream Centre has replaced Bombay Blue at the same location.

The Best Sambar - a Chennai city round up

Hi All - the next installment coming up from The Sharck will be a feature on the Best Sambars from across Chennai city. Be it the idli-sambar from Rathna Cafe in Triplicane or the Sambar vadai at Sangeethas, you'll find your favourites right up here, classified as the best Sambars for Tiffin or Meals.

This article will be the first co-authored, public participation post on TheSharck. So do keep your opinions flowing in.

Article expected shortly - keep checking.

Cheers.

Designer idli dosa

Strengthening their commitment to food and beverage, Sathyam Cinemas earlier this year announced their latest culinary foray - iD. Located on the first level of the multiplex (opposite the popular Magic Hat), iD abbreviates from Idli-Dosa, the name saying it all. iD has been around for about five months now. Launched as part of the line of outlets being rolled out by celebrated chef Mickael Besse, iD opened to much fanfare and full houses, much like the cinema it resides within.

While the name may conjure up a Murugan Idli competitor in our heads, boy it does compete and out-do it in certain aspects and how.

Interiors & Styling:Keeping with the standards set within the complex by the cinemas, Ecstasy and recently Blur, iD too comes with contemporary designer styling and furniture - a world apart from Murugan Idli and the best efforts of Hotel Saravana Bhavan. Set in pristine white with contrasting black linen, the snazziness of the interiors can be quite something to fathom.

The walls on either side have interesting potrayals of the solar system depicted by food shot at iD. A sequence of Idlis showcase the lunar cycle while a tight shot of a dosa seems to reflect the sun. Very quirky, shot on location by Sharad Haksar.

The incredibly expensive imported square shaped stainless steel plates (a friend of mine referred to them as prison plates!) add to the style quotient while throwing up question marks whether the company running it is interested in their bottom lines at all! To complement the plates are very designer and interestingly anguled cutlery - especially the chutney pick ups.

There's no doubting the effort and pains taken at getting the styling right for iD - the best of European furniture and tableware find their way to enhancing your idli-dosa experience.

Service Concept: Taking further the thought of a service concept, iD has interesting menu cards that are placed on each table with the waiter marking off your order on the card and using it as a base for your bill - neat and transparent, much like the rest of the place's theming.

Food: The menu is limited but sensibly at that. Instead of indulging in a hundred frivolous iterations of the unassuming dosa, the iD menu lists the following:

- Idli: Plain, Rava
- Dosa: Plain, Masala, Rava
- Vada: Medu, Keera, Masala
- Pongal: Ghee, Sweet
- Appam: with Coconut milk, Vegetable stew, Ullitheetu
- Beverages: Lassi, Buttermilk, Fresh juice, Coffee
- Dessert: Kasi Halwa, Semiya payasam, Sweet pongal

The food is very consistent. I have visited iD about 8 times in the months since it's been open and have enjoyed the same textures, spicing and temperature each time.

To be honest, none of the fare served has any character unique to itself - served in the ambience it is set in does make the food taste better than it really is. But that is not to say that the food isn't good - it's satiating for sure. Special mentions to the Keera vada and the Idlis. The sweet lassi or the buttermilk are good accompaniments.

Most of the food is accompanied by the usual suspects - Kaara (spicy) chutney, Mint chutney and Coconut chutney along with excellent sambar. While definitely not close to being amongst the best in the city (Mathsya and Ratna Cafe hold on to that crown for now atleast), this Sambar definitely has a unique spicing and taste to it and consumed at its hottest, is very tasty.

The desserts are excellent though terribly filling in themselves. Would recommend the payasam and the kasi halwa strongly.

The biggest shock of them all is the pricing, and pleasantly so. Average bill per person for an average meal is about Rs. 100! Even HSB costs you more!

Staff & Service: Clearly the achille's heel for this otherwise great experience, the service has definitely waned since iD's inception. There clearly seems to be something wrong internally since the bunch of boys have remained the same. Just that the same smiling, eager waiters are nowadays bereft of facial expression, rushed and not very forthcoming. Wait time for food too has gone up from about 3-4 minutes earlier to close to 7-10 minutes these days, well providing for crowds or their lack of, as the case may be.

Considering the variety of food brands now at their disposal and with most of the outlets not requiring knowledge of rocket science (except perhaps Ecstasy), the corporate team at Sathyam could explore rotating the staff around to ensure that the boys are always freshly challenged.

Most of us in Chennai do land up at Sathyam Cinemas every once in a while. Do plan to spend a little extra time, either before or after your next movie to experience iD - the entire experience is worth enjoying.

Facilities: Again, designer ware hand wash at the outlet itself. Toilets of the cinema are availble for use.
Cost: Cheap. There's no better way to put it. Brilliant value for money.

Date: 15th August, 2009 (last visit)
Place: Chennai, India
Reviewed by: Harish Anand Thilakan

Must Order –Keera vada, Sweet lassi, Appam-Coconut milk, Ghee Pongal, Kasi Halwa .
Average Cost per person - Rs. 100 (group of 3 and above)

Address- Sathyam Cinemas, Thiru-vi-ka Road, Royapettah, Chennai
Driving Directions - Off Mount Road, every one in Chennai knows Sathyam theater! (If your auto chappie feigns ignorance, try Sathyam they-ter.)

Koffee at Kleio

A Guns n Roses styled dark brown coloured ‘chocolate’ rose was definitely not what I was expecting to see at Chennai’s newest cafe (am almost growing tired of this word). Christened Kleio, this snazzy one thousand sq. ft. eat out immediately conjures up positive vibes as you enter its bright, naturally lit interiors. Stylish cane furniture (needless to say, chocolate shaded) don’t look comfortable but pleasantly surprise.

Food: Impressive arrays of quick eats (sandwiches, rolls, wraps, pastas etc) complement a selection of cakes, beverages and other interesting dessert.

My first experience to the outlet was rather surprising with almost everything I tried flooring me. But I decided to go back a few times before writing this and boy, am I glad I did. Glad we left behind love-at-first-sight in school.

All the food fare sampled till date has never disappointed - the chicken mayo sandwich, the Cole slaw sandwich (innovatively shaped like a pastry), paneer wrap, veg pasta (mixed on-location). Special mentions due to the Paneer wrap which unlike most wraps around the city, was actually palatable.

The beverage menu seems strongly “inspired” from another city cafe though the concoction is anything but borrowed. The Snicker bar shake and Dream shake (Toblerone) are easily the best around town while the Oreo shake fell short of its contemporaries. The iced lemon tea was a hit as was the Cold Coffee Lite (sugarless).

It was the dessert department that interested me the most, especially thanks to the recent proliferation of dessert options in the city. The first dessert I sampled was the white chocolate muffin and I am still quite mesmerized by it – the white chocolate itself to be precise, was absolute heaven while the muffin could do with a better bake. The Nut corner was delicious, a biscuit made up of a mixture of nuts and served (on request) with ice cream, the apple pie was awry. My biggest disappointment was undoubtedly the Death by Chocolate. Along with Chocolate Truffle, any outlet that attempts to serve up the DBC will have to live with being benchmarked by these two landmark desserts. It was one of the poorer renditions of DBC I have come across, to be kind. The feedback was well received by the people in charge and they’ve set to work on getting it right.

Brand story: Kleio’s tag line, Sinfully Expressive explains the chocolate rose. “We want Kleio to be a destination where people head to express themselves. The rose is synonymous with expression and served in chocolate, it was a perfect fit” explains Rajesh. Taking forward the theme of a destination cafe, a lot of space has been left underutilized to make space for a dais of sorts. Rajesh plans to use the venue to organize Stand up comedy, karaoke sessions, activity for children, etc to help keep the crowds enthused beyond just his food – not a bad plan on paper but time will tell its success. The in-store and display branding is very refreshing for this space. Credit to their design agency, Whoa Mama.

Location:
Kleio operates from a centralized kitchen that caters to its 2 locations – opposite The Residency’s in-gate on Dr. Nair road, T. Nagar and DLF IT Park, Porur. My four visits before penning this review have all been to the T Nagar outlet. All the food is made by an in-house team with its owner, Rajesh Bysani (31) himself assuming the role of Chief Taster & QC Head.

Staff: Courteous and friendly though finer knowledge about the products are limited to the seemingly experienced.
Facilities: The toilet is usable and hygienic, for men and women alike.
Cost: Very reasonable, almost under priced. Only the special shakes are in excess of Rs. 120. All else average around Rs. 40 each.

Date: 13th August, 2009
Place: Chennai, India
Reviewed by: Harish Anand Thilakan

Must Order – Paneer wrap, Chicken Mayonnaise sandwich, Dream Shake, White chocolate muffin.
Average Cost per person - Rs. 135

Address- Dr. Nair Road, T. Nagar, Chennai - 600017
Driving Directions -Opposite the in-gate to The (old?) Residency hotel, at the junction of GN Chetty road and TP Road.