Monday, October 5, 2009

The Sambar Trail - Discovering Chennai's five best Sambars

Sambar served from a mug, the traditional way at Ratna Cafe, Triplicane.
Image Courtesy: Anand Hariharan


I must admit, this has been the one story that has consumed the maximum amount of effort, time and money till date. Whether it was traveling to Sriperumbudur to sample a sambar at a small joint based on a tip off or wrestling for parking to get into Triplicane, at the end of it all, I can only say that it was entirely worth it.

I will thank right at the start, Videep Vijay Kumar, my co-author for this story - I respect his taste buds and his forthright nature with opinions. We haven't really been able to convince each other about this list but it's the best we could settle on. Many thanks also to Venky, Mansi Mehta, Rochna, Sudhir Natarajan and others who have helped me put this piece together along with the many on Facebook who threw in their opinions.

I believed for to be a significant member of Tamil Nadu's culinary palate, often not given it's due perhaps owing to its ubiquity. However, this journey has convinced us of how a good sambar can lift a south indian meal or more importantly, how a bad one can ruin it. Discover with us, Chennai's top 5 Sambars:

1. Mathura
My tryst with Mathura's sambar happened by chance. After being chased out of a near shut joint for lunch in Besant Nagar, I decided to venture into Mathura, having read about it on Facebook, amongst the many opinions expressed by people, recommended by Rakesh Gowtham. Unlike the high hopes I carried into the more illustrious Sambar across the road in Triplicane, this Sambar didnt promise much. However, my first spoon and I had decided that this had to top the charts. The most eclectic mix of the pulses, spices, coconut and a hint of ghee served at the right temperature set my taste buds rolling. Deservedly, Chennai's best Sambar.
Tried as/with: Sambar vadai, Rava Dosa
Location: Mathura, 2nd Floor, Tarapore Towers, Anna Salai, Chennai - 600002

2. Ratna Cafe
Touted by most to top this chart, I personally was a little let down by my Ratna Cafe experience. Videep and me made it a point to head to the "real original" Triplicane branch and sit in the non ac section to enjoy it the way it is meant to be. However, I perhaps was a victim of over-expectation though I must attribute that to the 17 odd recommendations that came in for this sambar to be numero uno. Served hot and from a mug, this sambar is thick and works best as a tiffin sambar.
Tried as/with: Idli-Sambar, Ghee Roast
Location: Ratna Cafe, Tripline, Near Zam bazaar, Chennai

3. Mathsya
Just take our word for it - head to this Egmore icon (located within 150 metres of the Egmore station) to enjoy rich, thick udipi sambar unlike anywhere else in Chennai. It's hard to explain why this made it only to 3rd spot, but I guess it's a competitive world out there for the Sambars! Best tried after a few drinks at 1am with Mysore masala dosa.
Tried with / as: Pongal vada, Mysore masala dosa
Location: Near Egmore Railway station. Ph: 044-28191900

4. Ashoka / Palmgrove
The only "meals sambar" that made the cut, the sambar at Ashoka as well as it's cousin Palmgrove (same management) has remained uncannily consistent, more or less, over the decades (or so we hear!). Served hot, this will definitely appeal to those who prefer their sambar not-so-thick and bereft of asafoetida. It's versatility is on display when tried either with rice and ghee or with their signature ghee roast.
Tried with / as: Meals, Ghee roast, Sambar vada
Location: Ashoka - Pantheon Road, Egmore, Chennai-8; Palmgrove - Kodambakkam high road, Nungambakkam, Chennai-34

5. Hotel Saravana Bhavan
It's really not easy to operate at the scale at which 'HSB' does and yet achieve the consistency that they've managed to sustain. And for that sheer reason, HSB's sambar manages to face-off with rival Sangeetha and iD (Sathyam Cinemas) to make the final position on this list. Try any HSB at any point of the day either as Bisi Bela Bhaath, Idli-Sambar, Meals or just with a medu vadai, you will NOT be disappointed. Strong flavoured and medium thick is how this sambar has stayed for many years now.
Tried with / as: Pongal, Sambar Vada, Mysore masala dosa, bisi bela bhaath
Location: We tried the one in Pondy Bazaar, next to Maya Plaza and on Peters Road. To view details of their 18 other outlets in South India, click here.

Special mentions - Karthik Tiffin stall (Annanagar 12th main road), iD at sathyam Cinemas, Sangeetha and Raj Bhaavan (Nungambakkam high road)
Tribute - Woodlands Drive-in, we miss you

We made a conscious effort to not include the Mysore variety of sweetened sambar as made famous by Sukh sagar in Chennai and Chalukia in Bangalore since it has an entirely different, acquired taste. Moreover, this story was to discover Chennai's best sambar.

We were very keen to include Hotel Maris (adjacent to Sheraton Chola, Dr. RK Salai) in the list but didn't manage to make it there and were running out of time to release this. We are told that their idli-sambar is unique and a definite treat. If any of you know about this, do let us know.

I am hoping this story attracts lots of opinion, brickbats, feedback and more. Look forward to the same.

6 comments:

varun said...

Nice article.Appreciate the effort. HSB still continues to impress me.I think it is the best run restaurant chain in India in terms of the spread,the consistency and quality.

Unknown said...

Really like the way the article has shaped up.............But I personally love the slightly sweeter version of sambhar, popularly know as tiffin sambhar! And Maris is very good..............Ask any Maris loyalist!But for me, Palmgrove reigns supreme in your sambhar chronicles! Looking forward to your next review.........very helpful! :)

Kavya said...

Your effort in writing reviews about the eateries in and around chennai are highly appreciated! You're doing a great job which helps a lot to those new to chennai city :)

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